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Surfing and the Meaning of Life
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| List Price: | CDN$ 16.95 |
| Price: | CDN$ 12.71 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $39. Details |
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Product Description
All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole style-even a philosophy-of life. In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life-or at least an enjoyable read.
With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton-and with photographs that capture the thrill of the ride-this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it. And because, as Brock Little remarks in Fade to Black, "Adrenaline is a funny drug," a book about surfing must have its dose of humor-and this one does, along with surfings undeniable rush.
The perfect philosophy gift book for the true surfer. "If you accept all the doctrines of society, you'll never be a surfer."-Nat Young
With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton-and with photographs that capture the thrill of the ride-this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it. And because, as Brock Little remarks in Fade to Black, "Adrenaline is a funny drug," a book about surfing must have its dose of humor-and this one does, along with surfings undeniable rush.
The perfect philosophy gift book for the true surfer. "If you accept all the doctrines of society, you'll never be a surfer."-Nat Young
Product Details
- Amazon Sales Rank: #1265711 in Books
- Published on: 2006-08-31
- Original language: English
- Dimensions: .48" h x 5.88" w x 5.82" l, .51 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 96 pages
Editorial Reviews
Review
Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Sept. 10, 2006
“A must for anyone who loves riding the waves.”
From the Inside Flap
All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole philosophy of life.
In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life—or at least an enjoyable read! With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton, this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it
From the Back Cover
Out of the water, I am nothing.”
Duke Kahanamoku
All I need are some tasty waves and a cool buzz and I’m fine.”
Jeff Spicoli
All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole philosophy of life.
In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your lifeor at least an enjoyable read! With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton, this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it.
And because, as Brock Little remarks, Adrenaline is a funny drug,” a book about surfing must have its dose of humorand this one does, along with surfing’s undeniable rush.
If you accept all the doctrines of society, you’ll never be a surfer.”Nat Young
Opt out, read on, surf’s up!
